Three days works here because the city stacks: the Bund, the old town and Pudong are one riverside walk, the Concession is another, and the museums are a third. Nothing below needs a taxi. The one thing to do in advance is book the museums — they are free or nearly, and they are also the only part of this that can be sold out before you arrive.
At a glance
- Day 1The Bund → East Nanjing Road → Yu Garden → Lujiazui → the riverside walk
- Day 2Wukang Road → the Concession lanes → Tianzifang → Jing'an → West Nanjing Road
- Day 3Shanghai Museum East → Pudong art museums → the Lujiazui skywalk → Qiantan
Day 1
The Bund, the old town, and Pudong after dark
The Bund → East Nanjing Road → Yu Garden → Lujiazui → the riverside walk
Start on the Bund in daylight to see what the buildings actually are, then walk inland along East Nanjing Road to Yu Garden — about ¥40, and the City God Temple bazaar around it is free and best treated as a walk rather than a meal. Cross to Lujiazui in the late afternoon: the towers are the view back, and the riverside promenade under them is where to be when the Bund lights come on at the other side. The whole day is one river bend and costs almost nothing.
Day 2
Plane trees, and the lanes behind them
Wukang Road → the Concession lanes → Tianzifang → Jing'an → West Nanjing Road
This is a walking day and the point is the streets rather than any address on them. Wukang Road and the roads off it are the former French Concession at its best: plane trees, 1920s villas, and shops in the ground floors of houses people still live in. Tianzifang is the lane version of the same thing, more crowded and worth an hour. Finish at Jing'an Temple, about ¥50, and West Nanjing Road behind it. Eat away from the waterfront — the river-view restaurants charge for the view.
Day 3
Museums, and the water at the end of it
Shanghai Museum East → Pudong art museums → the Lujiazui skywalk → Qiantan
The Pudong side has become the museum side. Book whichever of them you want days ahead — they are free or a hundred yuan and they still run out — and check the day, because Monday closing is near-universal here. Between them, the Lujiazui circular skywalk is the free way to stand among the towers. Finish south at Qiantan for a park and a last meal before the airport: line 2 runs to both airports, or the Maglev covers the Pudong run in eight minutes for ¥50, ¥40 with a same-day boarding pass.
Eat like you mean it
- Nanxiang xiaolongbaoThe soup dumpling, in the old town where it is from. Expect a queue at the famous branch.
- Pan-fried shengjian bunsThicker skins, fried bases, eaten standing up at a window.
- Scallion-oil noodlesThe cheapest good thing in the city, and the test of a neighbourhood shop.
- Benbang braised porkShanghai home cooking: sweet, dark, and heavier than you expect.
- Crab roeHairy-crab season is October and November. Outside it, order something else.
- Paigu niangaoFried ribs over rice cakes — a snack that eats like a meal.
Where to stay
- The Bund & East Nanjing RoadFirst trip: Day 1 starts at the door and the metro is under it.
- Former French ConcessionThe nicest streets to come back to, and the quietest nights.
- Jing'anCentral, on several lines, cheaper than the waterfront.
- Lujiazui & PudongThe river view from your own window, at the price that implies.
Before you go
- Book the museums days ahead and check the day: Monday closing is close to universal here.
- Eat one street back from any view. The Bund and Yu Garden restaurants charge for what is outside the window.
- The Maglev is ¥50 to Pudong airport, ¥40 with a same-day boarding pass, and eight minutes. Line 2 is ¥8 and an hour and a half.
- Yu Garden bazaar is a walk, not a meal, and the garden itself closes its ticket window well before the gate.
- The riverside is several degrees colder than the street after dark. Take the extra layer.
One honest thing — Every museum here books ahead and most shut on Mondays. Build the museum day around a slot you already hold rather than turning up.
