A maze of cobbled lanes, willow canals and grey-tiled roofs under the white crown of Jade Dragon Snow Mountain. The Naxi old town is pure romance — and the launchpad for Tiger Leaping Gorge and the road to Shangri-La.
Tip The old town is a glorious maze — drop the map and let yourself get lost, it's small enough. For Jade Dragon Snow Mountain (3,000 m+), pre-book, go early, and take it slow for the altitude. Black Dragon Pool at dawn frames the peak in still water.
Mountain guideBooking the cable car, the altitude reality at 4,500 m, and what to wear up the glacier.
Sights guideA walking loop through the canals, the best dawn view of the peak, and the quieter Shuhe alternative.
Onward guideThe classic two-day hike, when to go, and how to arrange the bus and a guesthouse on the trail.
Pre-book, go early, move slowly. Oxygen cans are sold everywhere for a reason. Skip it if you've just flown in high.
The lanes loop back on themselves — wandering is the point. Mornings before the day-trippers are blissfully quiet.
A small heritage fee applies in the old town; keep the receipt — some sights ask to see it. Pay at the booths or your guesthouse.
Canals, lanterns just going off, locals washing veg in the stream. Two hours later it's wall-to-wall tour groups.
Moderately fit, hiking alone. Is the high trail well-marked enough to do without a guide? Two days okay?